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You would do this to make the laps coincide with a change in effort or correspond to a ‘geographic lap’ of some sort. If you happen to be doing laps of the park or intervals then you can manually press ‘lap’ on a Garmin and that simultaneously ends the active autolap. You can customise the appearance of the autolap screen and on a Garmin Edge bike computer, you can customise it a lot! The lap averages that you choose can indicate if you need to speed up or slow down to meet a pre-determined target. The same 1km lap will appear afterwards in your stats. Thus, when you complete 1km, a temporary screen pops up on your watch and gives you the time it took for that 1km lap. For a bike, I would suggest 10-minutes.Ĭompleted laps will appear on your Garmin AND ALSO in your post-workout stats. I would suggest that for a watch you set the autolap as 1km or 1mile. Garmin also has special autolap screens which periodically appear.
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You’ve already realised that the screen I just suggested to you is very much ‘of the moment’ ie for what’s happening to you NOW. Power meters start at £200, let’s hope your birthday is soon. If you are contemplating either of those then you have already figured out that this guide is too newbie-focussed for you ? That said, 3-second or 5-second power averages are perhaps the ultimate proxies for your true instantaneous effort levels. Maybe that’s a job for the week after next!īetter and more advanced metrics require a power meter both for your bike and for running (Stryd). Once you have done those tests then there are some quite pretty charts and dials you can display, if that’s your thing, or you can add alerts to notify you if you stray from target zones. You normally need a test to establish your zones. I would suggest that you just use the raw number for now and don’t get involved in HR zones or speed/pace zones. Some Fenixes can support 6 metrics/screen and obviously, a bigger bike computer can show significantly more. So that’s your 4 metrics for one screen of a running watch. My running cadence is 180-190 and my bike cadence is 85-95 though it can go up to 120 (or higher when performing drills) The optimal is usually said to be slightly higher than both of those numbers (180/90) but if you are currently lower you should work to progressively change your technique over time rather than aiming for a super-high number now. Broadly speaking your running cadence/footfall should be over 170 per minute and your cycling cadence comparable at around 85rpm (2x 85=170). Technique: Understanding your current cadence is the metric that can help you get those ‘low hanging fruits’ of improved technique.Speed/pace can give you that but, for starters, heart rate is perhaps a better indicator of what’s going on inside your body. It’s good to know how hard you are trying.
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Instant Effort: Effort & speed are different.On the other hand, cyclists will prefer speed mph or km/h probably because higher cycling speeds above 15mph can be better comprehended in relation to the speeds you might drive your car at. Thus 4:00/km is the pace required to do a 20 minute 5k (15km/h). Instant Speed/Pace: Most runners will eventually find it best to work on pace rather than speed ie the time taken to do a km or mile.It gives you some sense of how long you’ve been out and perhaps how long it might be before you need to head back home.
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